I discovered the hotel omelette is worth having a try, even though it was more of a frittata. At least it wasn’t made with the awful powered eggs the scrambled eggs is.
Our big stop for the day was the church of São Francisco a very historic church which had a guided tour of the many amazing rooms and churchy installations. It was all in Portuguese so the descriptions are from what words I could understand and mostly my assumptions.
The courtyard leading up to the church, undergoing some maintenance. All the street vendors selling drinks, coconuts, popcorn and steaming yellow mysteries didn’t seem to be having a good go of it because they had all gone by the time we came out. I guess the religious tourists aren’t very loose with their cash.
It was such a different style of church than I’ve ever seen before, and possibly a Tardis because it is far larger inside that it looks on the outside. I mean there are five or six different huge rooms, a series of large upstairs museum rooms and a bunch of smaller areas.
The first main chapel’s ceiling. This is all painted on wooden planks, as is all the detail work in the doorways and shouting platforms (or whatever those balconies are)
A small modest shrine to a monk. This is all carved wood, and goes back quite a way, the photo doesn’t do justice to the depth and detail. Probably as much justice as the slaves that were charged with carving all the wood got (that was one of the details I managed to translate from the guide).
From this ceiling I guess the Thursday chilli nights were legendary,
One of the few areas of grass I’ve seen in Brazil, so that was a treat. Also a 400+ year old bell tower.
For when prayer doesn’t quite reach God, there’s Dial-a-Prayer.
For the times when you want to make a statement but you don’t want to show off.
Collectible cards of the miracles that São Francisco committed. They seem to have collected them all.
Achievement unlocked.
Following the guide’s instructions that we must not touch or stand on the black tiles pretty much every male in the group then made a point of stepping over them, while the women just walked around. They are incredibly rare, easily damaged and are the 17th century version of scratch & sniff. Really. When rubbed they gave off an aroma. In the past this was a little too hard to follow, and a few punters just stole them. Security is a bit tighter these days.
The looking man’s eyes follow you. This is in the room with the “do not stand on the tiles” so you’re walking about looking up and not seeing where you’re standing. Disaster.
They certainly knew how to make lavatories in those days. No, seriously, the description plate says it’s a lavatory. How it works with certain functions I have no idea. Possibly why they had the black tiles that made nice smells to cover the not so nice ones.
Thor seems to have had a sideline in the Portuguese Franciscan church.
No label but I’m guessing this is the award winners from the last sports day. Three legged race, the crucifix throw and Father O’Leary taking home the gold in the greased hog wrestle.
Now this is a porch. I want one.
Finally after nearly two weeks of city, we finally got to see some Brazilian countryside. It’s full of bugs and spiders so we didn’t go any closer.
If I understood the guide correctly, this is a sundial. Putting it under a tree may not have been the most useful idea.
Another church just around the corner, slightly less celebrated given the amount of graffiti and wee that was present.
We headed to a shopping mall after our church visit and tried out Brazil’s answer to McDonald’s – Bob’s. Their Big Bob was different in taste enough to give me pause. It was one of those times where you aren’t sure if you don’t like something, or it’s just different from what you are used to. In this case, it was just different and I decided that I prefer it to a Big Mac. Cheesier, better bun, more pickle taste and way less salty. Bob’s also has Fanta Guarana which is perfect.
While at the mall we visited Americanos, which is like KMart but with more food. Louie chose a whole bunch of things he missed, and now I’m afraid I’m going to need a second suitcase to bring home some new favourites.
We also discovered a convenience store next to the hotel, and discovered they have Coke with coffee and 1 litre glass Coke bottles. Magical.
We finally made it to what they call a food court, but this is like no food court I’ve ever been to. Practically every type of food you can think of, and a bunch you didn’t know existed. Massive great area, so many stalls and everything is dirt cheap.
Brazil is fantastic for being open late, some of these photos are at 11pm on Friday night and it’s still going strong.
Still the perfect time to celebrate Christmas. Nobody else seems to question this.
My first try of coxinhas, mini ones but still genuine. Kind of like Hershey Kisses, but with bread outside and chicken in the middle. Very good.
And the main course – meats on a stick From the bottom up: sausage, steak wrapped in bacon, chicken and garlic bread. So, so good, and all cooked over charcoals. This is going into the “try at home” list. This is definitely they best food we’ve had in João Pessoa, and we will probably be back tomorrow night for something different.
Comments
One response to “16. Church day”
The church looks amazing. David, I think this must rate as the most incredible holiday you have blogged and I am so glad you have been blogging. I must admit I am quite worn out just reading about the places and experiences. You must be knacked! Take care x